A spot of terrain jaunting at Kakizore

Today I was on a mission to find a waterfall. I found out about a particularly beautiful one out in the Kiso Valley in the Nagano prefecture.

As I made my way to Nakatsugawa, I realised that I've spent the bulk of my holiday on trains. It's a good thing that the trains here are fo hospitable and easy to use. At Nakatsugawa, I had to wait about 30 minutes to get the train to Junikane. Junikane is a tiny deserted country station. I was the only person to get off there and as the train departed I was struck by an ominous horror-film feeling that I might never leave this place again. Been watching too many movies lately? ;0)

There were plenty of maps to guide me towards Kakizore ravine. They were imminently helpful, if a little false in their distance gauging. But maybe it was the winding roads and the heat that made the four or so kilometres seem more like ten. I saw the river immediately and was at once enchanted by its siren-like waters. But I was not to have the pleasure of experiencing it for quite some time. I swear the river was taunting me throughout my hike.

It was about a four kilometre hike from the station to Kakizore, all of it following a narrow road. I'd brought my runners thinking I'd be hiking more but because of the heat and the easy road, I accomplished the hike in my thongs. I have such a funny tan line on my feet now. Sigh, I've spent far too much time in the sun this holiday. I look like a turkey roast roll with the criss-cross net pattern.

The views were amazing along the way: little quaint country houses on luscious farm lands and the most beautiful wild flowers lining the roads. The mountains were majestic and already dotted with a few early deciduous red and yellow trees. This area would look magnificent in the autumn. And of course throughout my journey was the constant tinkling laughter of the running water. I was always so close to that river yet still so very far.

My first sight of the water left me in awe. It was blue and gorgeous but as I got closer to Kakizore the water got even clearer and purer. By the time, I reached Kakizore, I was hot and wet with sweat, wonderfully glad for the shade and ready to sit down and eat my lunch. I decided to cross the river and the suspension bridge was one of those shake-with-every-movement-you-make types. It was fun and made me want to bounce up and down.

Then I crossed the river again, this time through the water to get to a shaded glen to have my river side picnic. It was glorious. The water was the clearest, coldest water I have ever experienced. Forget the chilly waters of the lake that inspire cries of 'decollatage!' this was freshly-melted-snow cold.

I lost my thong again as I walked in the water. But this time the water moved so fast I didn't have time to laugh as it's appearance let alone save it. It disappeared from sight before I could utter a cry. Thank god I'd brought my runners or it would have been a long and utterly painful walk home.

After my picnic and recovering from the loss of my thong with aplomb, I headed for the Ushigataki waterfall, following a narrow and decidedly rickety looking pathway. The time-worn planks bent this way and that, leading up and down stairs that sloped at dangerous angles.

On the way to the falls, I spotted three guys in wet suits in the river, clambering over the rocks and tackling the cold rapids head-on. Since they were hopping along those rocks like mountain goats I dubbed them the Terrain jaunters.

The sight of the waterfall was unforgettable. I stood on the viewing platform with my mouth literally hanging open. In the presence of such overwhleming power and beauty there really wasn't much else I could do.

The Terrain jaunters reached the pool just below the waterfall just as I reached the viewing platform way above them. They took great delight in hollering as they dived from the rocks into the icy swirls that skirted the falls. Lucky bastards.

While I was there I wondered why the ravine air seemed to be scented with the smell of barbecued meat. I was expecting more of a pine scent, frankly. On the way back, I saw several families crowding around tiny little barbecues, preparing their dinners. Ah...that would explain the smell.

As I headed back to my shaded glen for a spot of relaxing, I saw a woman carrying my lost thong. Huzzah, it had been rescued! I swear I am the luckiest thong owner in the world. Twice now I've lost my left thong in the waters of Japan only to have it rescued for me.

It was utterly serene to sit by the river and write as I listened to it rush past. I dangled my feet in the water but it was just too cold for a proper swim.

I headed back, giving myself plenty of time since I didn't want to miss the highly irregular trains. But the trek back was so much easier, quicker and cooler that I made it back with more than an hour to spare. I caught the earlier train and was expecting to have to wait at Nakatsugawa for a long while. But I was able to get on a rapid immediately. My train connections were seamless and I was home before 7:30pm. God bless Japan's efficient trains.